A bait-and-switch car ad advertises a car or a price the dealer does not really intend to sell, so it can steer you to a different car or a worse deal once you arrive. The fastest defense is proof: a screenshot of the ad with the VIN and price, and a text asking the dealer to confirm the car is there at that price before you drive over.
How the federal guide defines it
The FTC's Guides Against Bait Advertising, mirrored at 16 CFR 238.0, describe bait advertising as an alluring but insincere offer to sell something the advertiser does not intend or want to sell, with the purpose of switching consumers to something else, usually at a higher price. Section 238.3 lists acts that point to a bait scheme, including refusing to show or sell the advertised product on the ad's terms and running down the advertised product, its credit terms or its service.
What it looks like on a car lot
The advertised car 'just sold' but a pricier one is ready. The low price only applies with dealer financing, a trade-in or a stack of add-ons the ad never mentioned. The salesperson suddenly finds problems with the car you came for. A low online price turns into a higher number once the buyer's order prints. Our dealer add-ons and payment packing guide and dealer doc fees guide cover the fees that often fill the gap.
Confirm the car before you visit
Ask for the VIN and stock number, then ask by text if the car is on the lot and available at the advertised price. Run the VIN at the NHTSA recall lookup so you know it is the car in the ad. If the dealer will not confirm in writing, treat the ad as a lead, not an offer.
Online listings and lead forms
Many bait ads now live on listing sites and social posts rather than in the paper. A price far below similar cars, a listing with stock photos only, or a 'call for price' line paired with a low headline number all deserve a written question before you drive over. Lead forms that ask for your phone and credit details before they show the VIN are mostly collecting leads, which the FTC guide calls the primary aim of a bait ad.
If the switch happens at the desk
Ask the salesperson to put the advertised car and price on a buyer's order. If they refuse, say so in a text to the dealer while you are still there, so the time and the refusal are on record. Then leave. A different car at a higher price is a new deal you can compare on your own time, not something to sign that afternoon.
Proof to save before you go
- Screenshot the ad with the price, VIN, stock number and the date.
- Save the listing URL and any text or email from the salesperson.
- Ask by text whether the advertised car is on the lot at the advertised price.
- Bring the screenshot and ask for the buyer's order at that price.
- Write down who told you the car was gone or the price was different.
Where to complain
If a dealer will not honor a clear ad, a short written complaint with your screenshots carries more weight than a phone call. Your state attorney general or consumer protection office handles dealer advertising complaints, and the CFPB auto loan page covers complaints tied to the financing side of a deal. Keep copies of everything you send.
Keep one paper file for the deal
Put the ad screenshot, texts, the buyer's order, the Buyers Guide photo, the title copy, the bill of sale and every receipt in one folder or one phone album the day you buy. If something goes wrong a month later, that file is what a DMV clerk, a lender or a consumer office will ask to see first. Dates and names on each page matter more than your memory of who said what.
History report and title still come first
Ad tricks and paperwork gaps do not replace a clean title check. Pull a history report for brands and odometer readings, run an approved NMVTIS check when the car crosses state lines and match the VIN on the dash to the paperwork before money moves. Our NMVTIS vs CARFAX guide and private-party CARFAX guide cover that order of operations on a used car deal. Our lien release guide covers payoff paperwork when a lender is still on the title.
What the report costs
As of early November 2026 a CARFAX bought direct usually costs around $44.99, and AutoCheck sits a little lower. We are a licensed CARFAX and AutoCheck reseller, not affiliated with CARFAX, AutoCheck or Experian. Our guest price has been about $5.50 a report, about $4.50 for members, and about $6.75 for a CARFAX and AutoCheck bundle. Confirm the price at checkout, since it can change.
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