The most common car title mistakes are signing on the wrong line, crossing out or using correction fluid, leaving the odometer reading blank, and taking an open title signed by someone who is not there, and any of them can stop the DMV from transferring the car to you. Rules differ by state, so check your DMV; the California DMV title transfer page and TxDMV buying and selling page were both live on Nov. 5, 2026.
Before anyone signs
Read the whole title first. Find the seller line, the buyer line, the odometer box and the lien release area. Check that the VIN matches the car and that the name on the title matches the seller ID. Our bill of sale guide covers the paperwork that goes with the title.
Mistakes to avoid
- Signing in the buyer section as the seller, or the other way around.
- Using correction fluid or crossing out a mistake; many states treat that as altered.
- Leaving the odometer reading or the date blank.
- Missing a co-owner signature when the title lists two names with "and".
- Accepting a title with an unreleased lien.
- Taking an open title signed by someone who is not the person selling to you.
Odometer disclosure
Federal rules require an odometer disclosure on many transfers. The federal exemption rule lists which older vehicles are exempt. If the car is not exempt and the reading is blank or wrong, the DMV may reject the title. Our odometer disclosure guide covers the details.
Open titles and title jumping
An open title is one the owner signed but left the buyer blank. A reseller who flips cars this way is skipping the step of putting the car in their own name. That can hide a branded history or an odometer problem. Our title jumping guide explains the risk.
If a mistake already happened
Do not try to fix it yourself with more ink. Ask your DMV what it needs. Some states have a form to explain an error, and others need a duplicate title from the owner. Our duplicate title guide covers what to watch for when a seller suddenly has a new title.
Check the history too
A clean signature does not mean a clean car. Pull a history report and an approved NMVTIS check before you pay, and run the VIN through the NHTSA recall lookup.
Questions to ask the seller
- Is the title in your name, and do you have ID to match?
- Is there a loan on the car, and has the lien been released?
- Are there two owners on the title, and can both sign?
- Is the title original, or a duplicate, and why?
- Will you sign at the DMV or a bank with me?
Lien release lines
If the title shows a lender, the lien must be released, either on the title itself or with a separate release letter, depending on the state. A title with an open lien can stop the transfer. Our lien release guide and lien payoff guide explain how to handle it.
Lost or damaged titles
If the seller cannot find the title, wait until they get a duplicate before you pay. A torn or water-damaged title may also be rejected. Our lost title guide covers the steps.
Pay last
Hand over payment only after the title is signed correctly, the lien is cleared and the VIN matches the car. Use a traceable payment method and keep a dated bill of sale signed by both of you. Take a photo of the signed title, front and back, before you leave. If the DMV rejects it later, that photo and the bill of sale help you show what was agreed and find the seller again.
What the report costs
As of early November 2026 a CARFAX bought direct usually costs around $44.99, and AutoCheck sits a little lower. We are a licensed CARFAX and AutoCheck reseller, not affiliated with CARFAX, AutoCheck or Experian. Our guest price has been about $5.50 a report, about $4.50 for members, and about $6.75 for a CARFAX and AutoCheck bundle. Confirm the price at checkout, since it can change.
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