If a used car dealer has not delivered your title, check your state's deadline first, because in most states the dealer must file the title paperwork within a set number of days, and once that passes you can file a complaint with the agency that licenses dealers. Texas, for example, says a dealer must process title and registration within 30 days of purchase, or 45 days if the dealer provides the financing, and that you can file a dealer complaint after 30 days without a title.
Deadlines in other states
Florida law, at section 319.23, says the dealer must obtain the title in the buyer's name and that the application must be filed within 30 days after delivery. Wisconsin requires dealers to submit title and plate applications within 7 business days and tells buyers to check processing times if nothing arrives within a month. Michigan says you can file a dealer complaint if you have not received your title and registration within three weeks.
What to do first
Call the dealer's title clerk or manager, not the salesperson, and ask for the reason and a date in writing. Ask whether a prior lien is still open and which lender holds the title. Keep the buyer's order, the contract and your proof of payment together.
Filing a complaint
Oregon's DMV lists dealer complaints it handles, including not providing the title on time and not paying off lienholders, and explains options when a dealer goes out of business. Attach copies of your contract, receipts and any messages. Our duplicate title guide covers a separate problem: replacing a title that was lost.
Check the car while you wait
Run the VIN for title brands and liens while the paperwork is pending, so you know what will arrive. A title that comes back branded or with an old lien is a bigger problem than a slow one.
Why titles get held up
Common causes are a prior lien the dealer has not paid off, a title still in transit from another state, paperwork errors, or a dealer short on cash. Our trade-in payoff guide covers the case where the dealer never paid off your old loan. Each of these is the dealer's problem to fix, but you carry the risk while you wait.
Temporary tags and insurance
Do not let a temporary tag run out while the title is missing. Ask the dealer in writing for a replacement tag or a date, and keep your insurance active. Our temporary tag guide covers what can happen when a tag lapses.
Reading the history report
Read the title section first: any salvage, rebuilt, flood or lemon brand changes the value more than anything else. Then line up the odometer readings by date and look for gaps or drops. Check the number of owners and the states where the car was registered. An approved NMVTIS check adds insurer and salvage-yard records. Our odometer discrepancy guide explains odd mileage entries.
Paperwork to keep
Keep the buyer's order, the retail installment contract, the odometer statement, any Buyers Guide, warranty or service-contract papers and every payoff or lien letter in one folder. Photograph the window sticker and the dash mileage on the day you sign. If a dispute comes up later, dated paperwork is what a lender, an insurer, a dealer licensing agency or a court will ask for first.
Compare the financing
Get a preapproval from a bank or credit union before you visit, so you can compare it with the dealer offer on the same term. Compare the APR, the amount financed and the total interest, not just the monthly payment. The CFPB auto loan tools walk through what to read on an offer. Decide on add-ons such as GAP and service contracts on their own merits, and get the price of each one in writing.
What the report costs
As of early November 2026 a CARFAX bought direct usually costs around $44.99, and AutoCheck sits a little lower. We are a licensed CARFAX and AutoCheck reseller, not affiliated with CARFAX, AutoCheck or Experian. Our guest price has been about $5.50 a report, about $4.50 for members, and about $6.75 for a CARFAX and AutoCheck bundle. Confirm the price at checkout, since it can change.
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