Uninsured motorist coverage is the part of your auto policy that can pay for your injuries when the at-fault driver has no insurance or not enough insurance, and on a used car you should confirm the coverage and the car's title history before you drive away, because a cheap purchase price does not fix a gap in coverage. The California Department of Insurance explains uninsured and underinsured motorist coverage and says insurers must offer it in writing when you buy liability coverage.
What UM and UIM usually cover
Uninsured motorist (UM) applies when the other driver has no liability insurance or cannot be found, as in many hit-and-run cases. Underinsured motorist (UIM) applies when the other driver has insurance that is too small for your losses. Bodily injury is the core; some policies also sell uninsured motorist property damage. Read your declarations page for limits and exclusions.
Why the used car still matters
A salvage or rebuilt brand, a prior total loss or a flood history can change what your insurer will pay to repair or replace the car after a crash with an uninsured driver. Pull a history report and an approved NMVTIS check so you know the title story before you bind coverage. Our NMVTIS versus CARFAX guide compares those views.
Shopping the policy with the VIN
Call your agent with the VIN, the mileage and any brand you already know. Ask whether UM/UIM limits match your liability limits, whether a deductible applies to property damage and whether a prior insurer claim on the car changes the quote. If you carry only state-minimum liability, raising UM/UIM closer to your own medical and wage risk is often the more useful upgrade than adding vanity coverages on an older car.
Private-sale paperwork
On a private sale, confirm the seller's name matches the title and that any lien is released before you drive uninsured on a brand-new policy gap. Our lien release guide walks through that step.
When you buy the car
Ask your agent to quote liability, collision, other-than-collision and uninsured motorist on the exact VIN before you pay. A rebuilt or salvage brand can change the quote or the company's willingness to write the policy. Our rebuilt title insurance guide covers that friction.
If you already had a hit-and-run
Document the date, the police report number and photos, then call your insurer. Keep repair estimates and the history report that shows prior damage, so a later buyer dispute does not rest on memory alone. Ask if a UM claim will use aftermarket or OEM parts and how rental coverage works while the car is down.
Reading the history report
Read the title section first: any salvage, rebuilt, flood or lemon brand changes the value more than anything else. Then line up the odometer readings by date and look for gaps or drops. Check the number of owners and the states where the car was registered. An approved NMVTIS check adds insurer and salvage-yard records. Our odometer discrepancy guide explains odd mileage entries.
Paperwork to keep
Keep the buyer's order, the retail installment contract, the odometer statement, any Buyers Guide, warranty or service-contract papers and every payoff or lien letter in one folder. Photograph the window sticker and the dash mileage on the day you sign. If a dispute comes up later, dated paperwork is what a lender, an insurer, a dealer licensing agency or a court will ask for first.
Compare the financing
Get a preapproval from a bank or credit union before you visit, so you can compare it with the dealer offer on the same term. Compare the APR, the amount financed and the total interest, not just the monthly payment. The CFPB auto loan tools walk through what to read on an offer. Decide on add-ons such as GAP and service contracts on their own merits, and get the price of each one in writing.
Limits that usually make sense
Ask for UM and UIM limits that at least match your bodily-injury liability limits, and get the quote in writing with the VIN. On a cheap older car, collision may not be worth the premium, but UM still matters because medical bills and lost wages do not shrink with the car's market value. Our GAP insurance guide covers a different gap: loan balance versus actual cash value after a total loss.
What the report costs
As of early November 2026 a CARFAX bought direct usually costs around $44.99, and AutoCheck sits a little lower. We are a licensed CARFAX and AutoCheck reseller, not affiliated with CARFAX, AutoCheck or Experian. Our guest price has been about $5.50 a report, about $4.50 for members, and about $6.75 for a CARFAX and AutoCheck bundle. Confirm the price at checkout, since it can change.
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