Buy a 507 on documented aluminium-V8 files and honest Series I or Series II paperwork first. Elvis folklore still sells, but a soft aluminium pack or vague hardtop leftover claim rewrites the budget fast.
For this November 5, 2026 guide I read Car Collector International: BMW 507 Roadster guide and Hagerty: BMW 507 market note. The mechanical cautions below come from those pages; the order of checks and the questions for the seller are my own practical recommendations. Any price figures in those sources are market snapshots, not a valuation of the car in front of you. So, compare it with recent sales of the same specification and condition. I also kept the advice to things you can see, hear or ask for on a viewing day. If a seller rushes you past a cold start or blocks a lift inspection, treat that as a signal and walk away before you spend report money.
Know Series I and Series II families
CCI dates the 507 about 1956-1959 across those series. Pick a documented car before you travel.
Ask about V8 and gearbox invoices
CCI wants continuous specialist files. Ask for the last invoice by shop and date.
Confirm hardtop claims carefully
CCI treats factory hardtops as meaningful markers. Match BMW paperwork before any premium.
Inspect aluminium carefully
Soft panel or chassis repairs rewrite the budget. Photograph undertrays.
Keep a dated note of the cold start
Write idle quality, gearbox engagement and any smoke. Our cold-start test guide helps you brief that first start.
Prefer continuous BMW classic files
CCI puts books and specialist invoices high on the list. Photos beat handshake stories.
Confirm Series I and Series II identity carefully
CCI dates the 507 about 1956-1959 across those series. Match BMW paperwork before any hardtop claim.
Ask about V8 and gearbox invoices
CCI wants continuous specialist files. Ask for the last invoice by shop and date.
Inspect aluminium body carefully
Soft panel or chassis repairs rewrite the budget. Photograph seams before the bay is cleaned.
Keep a dated note of the cold start
Write idle quality, gearbox engagement and any smoke. Honestly, heat-related V8 faults show up late in a short loop.
Photograph tyre date codes and brake wear
Fresh stickers on old rubber still fail a real ownership budget. Write the DOT week and disc thickness.
Ask who can still support the car locally
Confirm a BMW classic specialist booking window before you send a deposit.
Prove the identity before a deposit
Match the chassis number on the BMW 507 Roadster to the title, any import papers and the plate on the car before you order a history report. Our VIN verification guide walks through that match, and imported-car report coverage sets expectations for cars that spent years overseas. Older chassis numbers may sit outside modern report databases, so confirm coverage before paying. NMVTIS covers U.S. title history only; it cannot replace foreign records or a physical inspection.
Get the repair scope in writing first
If the V8 or aluminium story looks soft, get a BMW classic specialist written estimate before you go further. Look, a seller PDF or a folder of photos is a starting document, not independent proof of condition. Ask the inspector for written findings with local estimates, split into safety work and cosmetic wishes. The NYC consumer-agency used-car guidance tells buyers to have an independent mechanic check the car, and our pre-purchase inspection checklist helps you set the scope. Keep a dated note of the drive, the temperatures and any noises, because a seller who disputes your findings later will ask what you saw and when. Keep copies of texts and emails with the seller in the same folder as the PPI write-up so the timeline stays clear.
We are a licensed CARFAX and AutoCheck reseller, not affiliated with CARFAX, AutoCheck or Experian. Guest reports have been about $5.50, member reports about $4.50 and a two-report bundle about $6.75; confirm the price at checkout because it can change. A report can miss unreported work, so keep the inspection appointment even when the history looks quiet.
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