If you use a used car for business, you can generally deduct either the IRS standard mileage rate or your actual costs, and the choice you make in the first year limits what you can do later. For 2026, the IRS set the business standard mileage rate at 72.5 cents a mile from January 1 through June 30 and 76 cents a mile from July 1 through December 31, according to its standard mileage rates page. The charity rate is 14 cents a mile. This is general information, not tax advice, so check your own facts with a tax professional.
Why 2026 has two rates
The IRS announced the 72.5-cent rate for 2026 in IR-2025-128 and later raised it to 76 cents for the second half of the year in Announcement 2026-11. If you track miles, keep them split by date so you can apply the right rate to each half. A mileage log that only shows a yearly total will make that harder.
Standard mileage rate or actual costs
The standard rate is one number per business mile that stands in for gas, insurance, repairs and depreciation. The actual-cost method adds up those expenses and multiplies them by your business-use percentage. According to IRS Topic 510, to use the standard rate for a car you own, you have to choose it in the first year the car is used for business. You also cannot use the standard rate after claiming Section 179, bonus depreciation or MACRS depreciation on that car. That first-year choice is the one people regret most.
Section 179 and depreciation
Under the actual-cost method, a used car can be depreciated, and some buyers look at Section 179 or bonus depreciation. Passenger vehicles have annual depreciation limits, and heavier vehicles follow different rules. IRS Publication 463 lists the current limits and explains how business-use percentage affects them. If business use drops to 50% or less in later years, some of the benefit can be recaptured, so plan for how you will actually use the car.
Picking a method with a used car
For a cheap, efficient used car driven a lot, the standard rate often comes out ahead, because it covers depreciation the car is not really losing much of. For a pricier car driven fewer miles, actual costs with depreciation can be larger in early years. Run both for the first year before you file, since the first-year choice locks in what you can do later. If you lease rather than buy, the rules differ again, and Topic 510 explains that you must stick with the standard rate for the whole lease if you pick it.
Records to keep
- A dated mileage log with the business purpose of each trip.
- The purchase contract, bill of sale and title.
- Receipts for fuel, repairs, insurance and registration if you use actual costs.
- Loan paperwork, since business-use interest may be deductible for some taxpayers.
- The vehicle history report you pulled before buying.
Buying the car itself
A tax deduction does not make a bad car a good buy. A car that needs constant repairs eats into any savings, and a branded title can make resale and financing harder. Pull a history report, check for open recalls at the NHTSA recall lookup, and get a pre-purchase inspection. Our used car VIN check checklist covers the steps, and our guide to dealer doc fees covers what to watch on the contract.
Business-use percentage in practice
Under the actual-cost method, your deduction is limited to the share of miles that are for business. If you drove 20,000 miles and 12,000 were for business, your business-use share is 60%, and only 60% of eligible costs count. A clean log makes that number easy to support. A guess written down at tax time does not. Many apps record trips automatically, but check them, since they can miss trips or tag personal driving as business.
Commuting is not business mileage
Driving from home to your regular workplace is generally commuting and not deductible. Trips between work sites, to clients or to pick up supplies usually count. Employees who are not self-employed generally cannot deduct unreimbursed vehicle costs on their federal return under current rules, so this mostly applies to self-employed people and business owners. Read Topic 510 for the details.
What the report costs
As of early November 2026 a CARFAX bought direct usually costs around $44.99, and AutoCheck sits a little lower. We are a licensed CARFAX and AutoCheck reseller, not affiliated with CARFAX, AutoCheck or Experian. Our guest price has been about $5.50 a report, about $4.50 for members, and about $6.75 for a CARFAX and AutoCheck bundle. Confirm the price at checkout, since it can change.



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