Used Datsun 280Z Buying Guide: Rust, Fuel Injection and Title

A used Datsun 280Z is worth buying when the body is solid and the title and VIN line up, because rust and paperwork cause more grief than the engine on these cars. The 280Z was the last of Nissan's S30 Z cars, which were sold as the Fairlady Z in Japan and as the Datsun 240Z, 260Z and 280Z for export from 1969 to 1978, per Wikipedia's S30 entry. When we searched NHTSA's recall lookup on Nov. 5, 2026, it returned no recalls under the Datsun 280Z name. Prices for good Z cars have climbed, so a careful check protects real money.

Which Z you are looking at

The 280Z covers roughly the 1975 to 1978 model years and added electronic fuel injection, which the 240Z did not have. A 2+2 version with a longer roof was also sold. Many cars have been swapped, restored or converted, sometimes with parts from other Z models. Check the engine and body style against the VIN and the title. If you want the later Z car story, our 300ZX guide covers it.

Older VINs and the title

Cars built before 1981 do not use the standard 17-character VIN, so a 280Z serial number is shorter and the check is different. Find the VIN plate and compare it carefully with the title. Missing or re-riveted plates are a warning sign, since stolen classic cars do get re-plated. A VIN verification at the DMV or police can help. If the seller only has a bill of sale, read our bonded title guide before you agree to anything.

Rust is the deal-breaker

Check the floor pans, frame rails, rocker panels, the battery tray area, the rear hatch and the lower doors. Lift carpets and look under the car with a flashlight. These cars rust from the inside out, and a shiny repaint can hide a lot. We have seen buyers fall for paint and miss rotted frame rails, which are expensive to repair correctly. Pay for a pre-purchase inspection by someone who knows old Z cars and ask them to put a magnet on the lower panels.

Engine and fuel injection

The inline six is known for being durable, but the fuel injection system is now nearly 50 years old. Hard starting, rough idle, or a car that runs well cold and poorly hot often points to fuel injection sensors or wiring. Check for oil leaks, blue smoke and overheating. Listen to the differential and check the transmission for grinding. If the car has carburetors instead, find out who converted it and why.

Recalls and history reports

Run whatever you can at the NHTSA recall lookup, but expect little. History reports on a 1970s car are thin, since many records predate electronic reporting. The report is still useful for title brands and any recent records, and you should treat the seller's paper records as the main history.

Restored, original or project

Z cars sell in three rough groups. Original cars with their paint and engine are rare and draw the highest prices from collectors. Restored cars vary a lot, from careful shop builds with photos of every step to quick flips with paint over rust. Project cars are cheap at the start and expensive at the end. Ask for photos of any restoration, especially of the floors and frame rails before paint. A seller who has nothing to show you for a full restoration is asking you to trust a repaint. We have seen listings call a car restored when only the paint and seats were new.

Insurance and registration

A 280Z qualifies as a classic in most states and with most insurers, which can mean lower premiums but limits on use and mileage. Some states offer historic plates with their own rules. Check your state's requirements before you register, and confirm the title transfers cleanly, since the shorter pre-1981 VIN can confuse some DMV systems.

When to walk away

• Rotted frame rails or floors under fresh paint.
• A VIN plate that looks re-riveted or does not match the title.
• Only a bill of sale and no title.
• Major engine swap with no records.

Questions to ask the seller

• How much rust repair has the car had, and is there documentation?
• Is the engine original to the car?
• Do you have the title in your name?
• Has the fuel injection been converted or rebuilt?

How to price it

Z car prices depend heavily on rust, originality and paperwork. Compare sold cars of similar condition and be skeptical of asking prices pulled from the best auction results. A rust-free car with a clean title is worth paying more for than a cheaper car that needs metal work.

What the report costs

As of early November 2026 a CARFAX bought direct usually costs around $44.99, and AutoCheck sits a little lower. We are a licensed CARFAX and AutoCheck reseller, not affiliated with CARFAX, AutoCheck or Experian. Our guest price has been about $5.50 a report, about $4.50 for members, and about $6.75 for a CARFAX and AutoCheck bundle. Confirm the price at checkout, since it can change.

On a car this old, read the report for title brands and odometer readings first; service entries are often thin.

Sources

• Nissan S30 (240Z, 260Z, 280Z), Wikipedia
• NHTSA recall lookup
• NMVTIS, U.S. Department of Justice