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Buying Guides November 5, 2026 · 4 min read

Used Datsun 510 Buying Guide: Bluebird Checks and Title

The Datsun 510 is a light, independent-suspension classic. Check identity, rust and title before you pay vintage-car money.

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CheapCarfaxAutocheck Editorial Team
Vehicle History Research Team
Used Datsun 510 Buying Guide: Bluebird Checks and Title

A used Datsun 510 only makes sense when the VIN story, the rust profile and the title all line up, because so many of these 1968-1973 Bluebirds have been raced, cloned or patched. Nissan sold the 510 in the U.S. as a four-door, two-door, wagon and coupe with an overhead-cam engine and four-wheel independent suspension inspired by contemporary European sedans, per Wikipedia. When we queried NHTSA for Datsun 510 model years on Nov. 5, 2026, the API returned no campaigns under the strings we tried, so treat the free recall lookup as a starting point and lean harder on inspection and title history.

What a real 510 is

The U.S. 510 launched in late 1967 for the 1968 model year and built a rally reputation that still inflates asking prices. Engines and trim vary by market, and many cars now wear non-original motors or fiberglass panels. Ask for build evidence, stamping photos and a timeline of owners. A shiny two-door with mixed identity parts is a different buy from a matching-numbers survivor.

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Rust and structure

Poke the rear strut towers, floor pans, rockers and battery tray. Prior race cars often hide seam welds and cage remnants. If the seller calls every patch "patina," get a lift inspection anyway. Our inspection guide applies even more on a 50-year-old shell than on a modern used car.

Title and identity fraud

Clone culture is real in this chassis. Match the VIN plate, door tags and title character by character, then pull a history report and an NMVTIS check. Run the VIN at NHTSA anyway. Read our VIN verification guide if anything looks restamped. For related Z-car shopping, the live 240SX guide is a different chassis but the same identity caution.

When to walk away

  • VIN plates that look disturbed or do not match the title.
  • Cars sold as numbers-matching without stamping photos.
  • Structural rust at strut towers or floors.
  • Sellers who refuse a lift inspection or a written bill of sale.

Questions to ask the seller

  • Can I photograph every VIN and body tag before I travel?
  • What is original on this car, and what was replaced?
  • Has the title ever been salvaged, bonded or out-of-state washed?
  • Will you allow a specialist inspection on a lift?

How to price it

510 prices reward originality and rust-free metal more than bolt-on speed parts. Pay for documented survivors; discount heavily for race shells marketed as street cars. Keep a reserve for brakes, fuel system refresh and unseen floor work even on pretty examples.

History report habits for this car

Order the report with the VIN from the metal plate, not from the ad. Compare every odometer entry and every title state. Look for auction annotations, total-loss language and gaps that line up with a seller's "garage find" story. Then open the free NHTSA recall lookup again on the morning you buy, because campaign lists change. Our guide to what a history report misses is worth a skim on any classic or grey-market car.

Paperwork to take home

Keep a bill of sale with the price, date, VIN and both addresses. Keep photos of the odometer and the title before anyone signs. If a lender still shows on the title, do not accept a story about a lost lien release; use our lien release checklist. For private sales, the bill of sale guide shows what belongs in the document in most states.

Race history and street manners

Many 510s lived hard in autocross and rally use. Ask for photos of the car with prior cages, and inspect weld points even if the cage is gone. A street car with race history can be fine when the shell was reinforced correctly; it is not fine when the seller hides cut floors. Drive the car over broken pavement to listen for clunks before you talk price.

What the report costs

As of early November 2026 a CARFAX bought direct usually costs around $44.99, and AutoCheck sits a little lower. We are a licensed CARFAX and AutoCheck reseller, not affiliated with CARFAX, AutoCheck or Experian. Our guest price has been about $5.50 a report, about $4.50 for members, and about $6.75 for a CARFAX and AutoCheck bundle. Confirm the price at checkout, since it can change.

On a car this old, read the report for title brands and odometer readings first; service entries are often thin.

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