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Buying Guides November 5, 2026 · 4 min read

Used Datsun 720 Buying Guide: Rust, Labels and Title

The 720 is Datsun/Nissan's early 1980s compact pickup. Check the tire-label campaign, rust and the title first.

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CheapCarfaxAutocheck Editorial Team
Vehicle History Research Team
Used Datsun 720 Buying Guide: Rust, Labels and Title

A used Datsun 720 is worth the money when the frame and cab are solid, the tire-pressure label campaign has been checked and the title matches the VIN, because these trucks are now about 40 years old and many spent years as farm or shop trucks. The 720 was sold as a Datsun and later as a Nissan compact pickup in the early 1980s, as the Wikipedia Datsun Truck page covers. NHTSA files many of these as Nissan 720. On Nov. 5, 2026, the NHTSA recall API returned 90V072000 (incorrect tire inflation pressures printed on certification labels) for 1985. Run the VIN on the NHTSA recall lookup before you pay.

720 identity

Match the year, engine, cab style and two- or four-wheel drive to the title. Datsun and Nissan badging both appear depending on the year. Our Toyota Pickup guide covers the rival compact truck from the same era.

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Tire label campaign

Ask whether 90V072000 was done and compare the door sticker pressures with the sidewall ratings. Our open recall guide covers how campaigns show up on a report.

Rust, frame and bed

Check the frame rails near the rear spring hangers, the cab corners, the floors and the bed floor. Salt-state trucks often hide patch panels under paint.

Engine and drivetrain

Listen for valve-train noise and a rough idle, and check for oil leaks. On four-wheel-drive trucks, make sure the hubs and transfer case engage both ways. Our classic car history guide covers thin logs.

A test drive that tells you something

Drive it from cold, not after the seller has warmed it up. Listen for ticks and knocks at start-up, watch the mirror for smoke, and check that every gauge works. Try every gear, a hard stop and a slow full-lock turn both ways, then look under the truck for fresh drips. Bring a flashlight and a magnet for filler checks on the lower panels and cab corners.

Insurance, registration and inspection

Call your insurer with the VIN before you pay. A collector or agreed-value policy may need mileage limits, secure storage or photos, while a standard policy may value the vehicle low after a loss. Ask your state DMV whether the vehicle needs a VIN inspection, a safety inspection or an emissions test at transfer, and what happens if a prior registration lapsed for years. Budget for new tires if the date codes are old, even when the tread looks fine.

When to walk away

  • A rotten frame.
  • A tire label that still shows wrong pressures.
  • A 4WD that will not engage.
  • A title VIN that does not match the plate.

Questions to ask the seller

  • Was 90V072000 done?
  • Any frame or cab rust repair?
  • Is the engine original?
  • Has the title ever been branded?

Reading the history on a decades-old car

Do not expect a long service log. Records from the 1970s and 1980s were often never reported, so the report matters most for title brands, odometer readings at title transfers and registration gaps by state. A car that moved from a coastal or rust-belt state to a dry one may have been retitled; look at the dates and ask why. An approved NMVTIS check adds salvage and junk records from insurers and recyclers. If the odometer readings go backward or the car shows as exempt, ask for the paper trail before you price it. Our odometer discrepancy guide explains what those entries mean.

Private-sale paperwork

Most cars like this sell privately. Make sure the name on the title matches the seller ID, the VIN on the title matches the plate and the stamping on the car, and any old lien is released in writing. Our lien release guide walks through that step. Pay by a traceable method, get a dated bill of sale, and do not accept an open title signed by someone who is not present.

How to price it

720 trucks price as work trucks unless they are very clean. Compare recent sales on Hagerty when comps exist, then subtract rust repair, tires and drivetrain work.

What the report costs

As of early November 2026 a CARFAX bought direct usually costs around $44.99, and AutoCheck sits a little lower. We are a licensed CARFAX and AutoCheck reseller, not affiliated with CARFAX, AutoCheck or Experian. Our guest price has been about $5.50 a report, about $4.50 for members, and about $6.75 for a CARFAX and AutoCheck bundle. Confirm the price at checkout, since it can change.

On a car this old, read the report for title brands and odometer readings first; service entries are often thin.

Sources

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