A used second-generation Ford Bronco, the full-size SUV sold for the 1980 to 1996 model years, is worth buying when the speed-control and ignition campaigns are closed, the frame is solid and the title is clean. On Nov. 5, 2026, the NHTSA recall API for 1995 returned 05V388000 for a speed-control deactivation switch that can overheat and start a fire, and earlier years also show 96V071000 for an ignition switch that can short. This is a different truck from the smaller Bronco II. Run the VIN on the NHTSA recall lookup before you pay.
Which Bronco this is
Wikipedia lists the second-generation Bronco as a full-size, body-on-frame SUV based on the F-Series, with a removable top on many trucks. It is not the Bronco II and not the 2021-and-newer Bronco. Match the engine and year to the VIN. Our general Bronco guide, first-generation guide and Bronco II guide cover the related models, and our Ford recall check shows the VIN search.
Cruise switch and ignition
Ask for invoices for 05V388000 and, on mid-1990s trucks, 96V071000. Look at the brake-pedal area for a melted speed-control switch and smell for electrical burning after a drive. Turn the key through every position and make sure accessories cut out as they should. A truck that was parked with the switch left connected for years deserves a careful under-dash look.
Frame, 4WD and the removable top
Tap the frame near the spring hangers and look for scale. Cycle 4HI and 4LO on loose ground. Check the top seals, the tailgate and the floor pans for rust. Our open recall guide covers how campaigns appear on a report.
A test drive that tells you something
Drive it from cold, not after the seller has warmed it up. Listen for ticks and knocks at start-up, watch the mirror for smoke, and check that every gauge and warning lamp comes on and then goes out. Try every gear, a hard stop and a slow full-lock turn both ways, then look underneath for fresh drips. Bring a flashlight and a magnet for filler checks on the lower doors and rear wheel arches.
Insurance, registration and inspection
Call your insurer with the VIN before you pay, because a high-mileage SUV or van can be valued low after a loss. Ask your state DMV whether the vehicle needs a VIN inspection, a safety inspection or an emissions test at transfer, and what happens if a prior registration lapsed. Budget for new tires if the date codes are old, even when the tread looks fine.
When to walk away
- An open 05V388000 cruise-switch recall.
- Ignition or dash wiring that smells burned.
- Frame rust near the spring hangers.
- A VIN that does not match the title.
Questions to ask the seller
- Was 05V388000 done? Was the work done, and is there a receipt?
- Was 96V071000 checked on mid-1990s trucks?
- Has it lived in a salt state?
- Has the title ever been branded?
Reading the history on an older SUV
Do not expect a complete service log. Many independent shops never reported their work, so the report matters most for title brands, odometer readings at title transfers and registration gaps by state. A car that moved from a coastal or rust-belt state to a dry one may have been retitled; look at the dates and ask why. An approved NMVTIS check adds salvage and junk records from insurers and recyclers. If the odometer readings go backward or the car shows as exempt, ask for the paper trail before you price it. Our odometer discrepancy guide explains what those entries mean.
Private-sale paperwork
Most cars like this sell privately. Make sure the name on the title matches the seller ID, the VIN on the title matches the plate and the stamping on the car, and any old lien is released in writing. Our lien release guide walks through that step. Pay by a traceable method, get a dated bill of sale, and do not accept an open title signed by someone who is not present.
How to price it
Second-gen Broncos sell as classic full-size SUVs. Compare recent private sales and dealer listings for the same year, engine and drivetrain, then subtract cruise-switch, ignition and frame repairs.
What the report costs
As of early November 2026 a CARFAX bought direct usually costs around $44.99, and AutoCheck sits a little lower. We are a licensed CARFAX and AutoCheck reseller, not affiliated with CARFAX, AutoCheck or Experian. Our guest price has been about $5.50 a report, about $4.50 for members, and about $6.75 for a CARFAX and AutoCheck bundle. Confirm the price at checkout, since it can change.
On a car this old, read the report for title brands and odometer readings first; service entries are often thin.
Sources
- NHTSA recall lookup (API checked Nov. 5, 2026; 1995: 05V388000 speed-control deactivation switch; earlier years 96V071000 ignition switch)
- Ford Bronco, Wikipedia
- NMVTIS
- Hagerty (valuation tools)
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