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Buying Guides November 7, 2026 · 5 min read

Ford Taunus 17M P3 Buying Guide

The Ford Taunus 17M P3, nicknamed the Badewanne, was built from 1960 to 1964, and the Ford Oldtimer and Motorsport Club Cologne says 669,731 came from Cologne and Antwerp, including 86,010 Turnier estates. Confirm the offered Ford Taunus 17M P3 matches its paperwork, then book an inspection that covers its construction and fitted equipment.

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CheapCarfaxAutocheck Editorial Team
Vehicle History Research Team
Ford Taunus 17M P3 Buying Guide

The Ford Taunus 17M P3, nicknamed the Badewanne, was built from 1960 to 1964, and the Ford Oldtimer and Motorsport Club Cologne says 669,731 came from Cologne and Antwerp, including 86,010 Turnier estates. Confirm the offered Ford Taunus 17M P3 matches its paperwork, then book an inspection that covers its construction and fitted equipment.

I used FOMCC Taunus 17m P3 history and Alt-Ford-Freunde 17m P3 page when preparing this November 7, 2026 guide. Those sources describe the model and its known weak spots, not every surviving chassis. So, the checks below turn that background into questions for a seller and a workshop; they do not assign a failure rate or current market value.

Know the P3 versions

The Ford Taunus 17M P3, nicknamed the Badewanne, was built from 1960 to 1964, and the Ford Oldtimer and Motorsport Club Cologne says 669,731 came from Cologne and Antwerp, including 86,010 Turnier estates. Engines were 1.5 and 1.7-litre four-cylinder units, with a 1.8-litre TS added later. Note which engine, body and gearbox the car has, since the club lists a three-speed column change as standard and a four-speed, overdrive and Saxomat as options. Match these details to the paperwork.

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Check the brakes and the year of change

The club says ATE front disc brakes became an option from April 1962 and were made standard in the August 1962 update, which also brought more power and new Solex carburettors with an automatic choke. Ask the seller which brakes are fitted and whether that matches the build date. Have a mechanic check the calipers, hoses and pipes, since a car that sat for years can have seized parts. A drum-braked early car needs its own parts plan.

Inspect the curved body closely

The rounded body that earned the nickname makes poor rust repairs hard to hide well and hard to fix well. Ask for lift access and have the shop check the sills, floor pans, wheel arches, door bottoms and the area around the screen. Look for thick filler and plates welded over old metal, and ask for photographs of any restoration. On a Turnier, inspect the tailgate and load floor, and note that the club says early estates had a different rear door and roof-mounted tail lamps.

Treat rare variants with care

The club mentions around 150 coupes and a small number of cabriolets built by Karl Deutsch, plus export versions with different headlamps. If a seller claims one of these, ask for documents and a club opinion before paying a premium. The Alt-Ford-Freunde club also keeps workshop information for the 17M P3, which helps when you need service details. Confirm a parts route for trim, lamps and glass before buying, since those are where rare versions differ.

Put the identity and import file beside the inspection

The physical chassis identifier must agree with the sale documents before a report is ordered. Use our VIN identity checks to organise that comparison and our imported-car report guide to understand why foreign history may be thin. Ask for original registration, import and ownership papers as applicable. NMVTIS offers a U.S. title-history route with defined coverage; it does not certify a bespoke build or replace foreign records. A fake PDF can disguise an ownership gap, so verify evidence through the issuing source rather than accepting a seller screenshot.

Agree the specialist work before leaving a deposit

Tell the shop which version and components it will see, then agree lift access, a controlled road test and a written description of limitations. Our pre-purchase inspection checklist helps frame the appointment, while NYC used-car guidance recommends an independent mechanic. Ask the specialist to separate immediate safety work from cosmetic preferences and optional upgrades. Look, a repair estimate is useful only if a supplier will actually provide the required part. Have the shop obtain a response for any known missing item.

Keep the offer conditional on the findings you care about. Put any seller repair promise in the purchase agreement. If the workshop cannot establish structural condition or a route to a needed safety part, defer the deal rather than inventing a discount. The final decision should reflect the documented car and your intended use, not a figure copied from a launch story.

Write down what the viewing showed

Keep a dated note of what you saw on the Ford Taunus 17M P3: chassis identifiers, warning lights, fluid leaks under the car, tyre dates, panel gaps and any part the seller could not show. Photograph each item. Send that list to the specialist before the appointment so the inspection starts from facts, not from the advert. If the seller will not allow photographs or lift access, ask why before you go further. A rare car rewards slow, written checks more than a quick decision made because another buyer might appear. If the seller pushes for a quick deposit, offer a refundable one tied to the inspection date, and put that condition in writing before any money moves.

We are a licensed CARFAX and AutoCheck reseller, not affiliated with CARFAX, AutoCheck or Experian. Wholesale reports cost a few dollars; confirm current coverage and the total at checkout. A quiet report can miss unreported repairs. Keep the independent inspection even if the seller sends an impressive PDF.

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