The W164 ML covers the 2006 to 2011 model years, and Import Car magazine notes a new unibody and new engines at launch. Confirm the offered Mercedes-Benz ML W164 matches its paperwork, then book an inspection that covers its construction and fitted equipment.
I used Import Car W164 ML-Class service notes when preparing this November 7, 2026 guide. Those sources describe the model, its known weak spots and its engineering, not the history of any single car for sale. So, the checks below turn that background into questions for a seller and a workshop; they do not assign a failure rate or current market value.
Identify the W164 engine and model year
The W164 ML covers the 2006 to 2011 model years, and Import Car magazine notes a new unibody and new engines at launch. Start by confirming the exact engine, since petrol V6, V8 and diesel versions were sold. Ask the shop to read the engine code and check the build date. This matters most on early petrol V6 and V8 cars, where Import Car reports a balance shaft idler gear that could wear until the timing jumped. A fix needs the engine removed, so ask for any record showing the work was done.
Check the Airmatic suspension if fitted
Import Car describes two air suspension systems on the W164 and says the compressor is the part most often replaced. Leave the car parked overnight before your viewing if you can, then look for one corner sitting low. Ask the seller to raise and lower the car using the dash control. Listen for the compressor running for a long time. Have the shop scan the suspension module for codes. A tired compressor can keep running until it overheats, so price a compressor and air springs before you agree on a figure.
Drive the 7G-Tronic in more than one mode
The seven-speed automatic is mechanically strong, according to Import Car, but solenoids and sensors in the valve body can cause shift faults. Note that in comfort or winter mode the gearbox starts in second gear, which can feel odd but is normal. Drive the car from cold, in traffic and at highway speed. Look for flare between gears, a harsh shift or a car that stays in one gear. Ask the shop for a transmission scan, and get a quote for a conductor plate or valve body repair if codes appear.
Look underneath for rust, leaks and worn driveline parts
Import Car reports rust on doors and wheel arches on W164s in salt-belt states, plus corroded brake lines, especially above the fuel tank. Ask the shop to put the car on a lift and photograph the brake lines, arches and door bottoms. Have it check the propshaft flex disc and center bearing for wear, which can cause vibration. Look for oil leaks near the filter housing and oil cooler. On cars with a heated seat, test it carefully, because early models had heater faults. List each finding before you agree on the price.
Put the VIN and title file beside the inspection
The physical chassis identifier must agree with the sale documents before a report is ordered. Use our VIN identity checks to organise that comparison and our imported-car report guide to understand why foreign history may be thin. Ask for the title, registration and service invoices, plus import papers if the car came from another country. NMVTIS offers a U.S. title-history route with defined coverage; it does not confirm mechanical condition or replace dealer service records. A fake PDF can disguise an ownership gap, so verify evidence through the issuing source rather than accepting a seller screenshot.
Agree the specialist work before leaving a deposit
Tell the shop which version and components it will see, then agree lift access, a controlled road test and a written description of limitations. Our pre-purchase inspection checklist helps frame the appointment, while NYC used-car guidance recommends an independent mechanic. Ask the specialist to separate immediate safety work from cosmetic preferences and optional upgrades. Look, a repair estimate is useful only if a supplier will actually provide the required part. Have the shop obtain a response for any known missing item.
Keep the offer conditional on the findings you care about. Put any seller repair promise in the purchase agreement. If the workshop cannot establish structural condition or a route to a needed safety part, defer the deal rather than inventing a discount. The final decision should reflect the documented car and your intended use, not a figure copied from a launch story.
We are a licensed CARFAX and AutoCheck reseller, not affiliated with CARFAX, AutoCheck or Experian. Wholesale reports cost a few dollars; confirm current coverage and the total at checkout. A quiet report can miss unreported repairs. Keep the independent inspection even if the seller sends an impressive PDF.

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