A used Nissan Patrol is worth buying when the paperwork is complete, the frame is solid and the title matches the chassis, because Nissan sold the Patrol new in North America only through the 60 series in 1969 and most later ones here are 25-year imports. The Wikipedia Patrol page notes that no Patrol-based vehicle was sold in North America after 1969 until the Infiniti QX56, and the current Armada is Patrol-based. On Nov. 5, 2026, the NHTSA recall API returned no campaigns for a 1968 Patrol. That says U.S. recall data is thin, not that the truck is sound.
Import paperwork comes first
A car never sold new in the U.S. can only be imported under the federal exemption for vehicles at least 25 years old, as described on the NHTSA importing a vehicle page. Ask for the customs entry (CBP Form 7501), the stamped HS-7 declaration and the EPA import form, plus the Japanese or European export certificate. Those papers are what a state DMV uses to issue a first U.S. title. Without them you may be buying a registration problem. Our grey-market import title guide covers how states treat these cars, and this explainer covers why U.S. history reports start thin on imports.
Patrol identity
Decide which Patrol you are looking at: an early 60 series sold here, or a later import such as a Y60 or Y61. Match the chassis or VIN on the frame to the title and the import papers. Our grey-market title guide covers how states title imports.
Rust, frame and body
Check the frame rails, the rear crossmember, the floors and the door bottoms. Imports from coastal or salted regions can be worse than they look.
Engine and drivetrain
Diesel imports should start clean cold and not smoke heavily. Test four-wheel drive, the low range and any locker. Look for leaks from the axles and the steering box.
Right-hand drive and parts
Many imports are right-hand drive, and parts may need to come from overseas. Our right-hand drive guide covers insurance and daily-use questions.
A test drive that tells you something
Drive it from cold, not after the seller has warmed it up. Listen for ticks and knocks at start-up, watch the mirror for smoke, and check that every gauge works. Try every gear, a hard stop and a slow full-lock turn both ways, then look under the truck for fresh drips. Bring a flashlight and a magnet for filler checks on the lower panels and cab corners.
Insurance, registration and inspection
Call your insurer with the VIN before you pay. A collector or agreed-value policy may need mileage limits, secure storage or photos, while a standard policy may value the vehicle low after a loss. Ask your state DMV whether the vehicle needs a VIN inspection, a safety inspection or an emissions test at transfer, and what happens if a prior registration lapsed for years. Budget for new tires if the date codes are old, even when the tread looks fine.
When to walk away
- Missing customs entry or export papers.
- Frame rot.
- A chassis number that does not match the papers.
- A DMV that will not issue a first title.
Questions to ask the seller
- Which series is it, and when was it imported?
- Do you have the 7501, HS-7 and export papers?
- What rust repair was done?
- Has it been titled in this state?
Reading the history on a decades-old car
Do not expect a long service log. Records from the 1970s and 1980s were often never reported, so the report matters most for title brands, odometer readings at title transfers and registration gaps by state. A car that moved from a coastal or rust-belt state to a dry one may have been retitled; look at the dates and ask why. An approved NMVTIS check adds salvage and junk records from insurers and recyclers. If the odometer readings go backward or the car shows as exempt, ask for the paper trail before you price it. Our odometer discrepancy guide explains what those entries mean.
Private-sale paperwork
Most cars like this sell privately. Make sure the name on the title matches the seller ID, the VIN on the title matches the plate and the stamping on the car, and any old lien is released in writing. Our lien release guide walks through that step. Pay by a traceable method, get a dated bill of sale, and do not accept an open title signed by someone who is not present.
How to price it
Patrol prices vary a lot by series and paperwork. Compare recent sales on Hagerty when comps exist, then subtract import fees, rust and parts shipping.
What the report costs
As of early November 2026 a CARFAX bought direct usually costs around $44.99, and AutoCheck sits a little lower. We are a licensed CARFAX and AutoCheck reseller, not affiliated with CARFAX, AutoCheck or Experian. Our guest price has been about $5.50 a report, about $4.50 for members, and about $6.75 for a CARFAX and AutoCheck bundle. Confirm the price at checkout, since it can change.
On a car this old, read the report for title brands and odometer readings first; service entries are often thin.
Sources
- NHTSA recall lookup (API checked Nov. 5, 2026; 1968 Patrol: no campaigns returned)
- Nissan Patrol, Wikipedia
- NMVTIS
- Hagerty (valuation tools)
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