A used 240Z is a body-condition purchase first and an engine purchase second. Put the car on a lift, pull the carpets and check the frame rails, floors, doglegs and hatch area before you discuss the price of a tidy L24.
For this November 5, 2026 guide, I checked the Sports Car Market 240Z guide (updated October 20, 2026) and the ZCarGuide rust inspection list. So, the checks below follow those sources, and the paperwork steps cover what a U.S. buyer must confirm separately.
Know which 240Z you are looking at
The 240Z was sold for the 1970 through 1973 model years before the larger-engined 260Z arrived. Sports Car Market notes collectors value early Series I cars and track the 1972 and 1973 running changes, including emissions equipment. Confirm the build date and the identity of the car from documents rather than from badges.
Start the rust check underneath
Sports Car Market lists floor pans, frame rails, rocker panels, battery area, wheel arches, hatch area and suspension mounting points as places the S30 body can corrode. A shiny repaint can conceal structural corrosion. Fresh underseal over seams is a reason to ask what it covers, not a sign of protection.
Lift the carpets and inspect the cowl
ZCarGuide suggests pulling up the carpet on both sides and checking the floorboards with a flashlight. It also flags a foam piece inside the cowl panel that soaks up moisture, letting the cowl rust from the inside out. Doglegs and the rear hatch mating surfaces are other common trouble areas.
Check the L24 and twin carburetors
The U.S. car used a 2,393 cc inline six with twin Hitachi side-draft carburetors and a four-speed manual as standard. Listen to a cold start, look for smoke and ask when the carburetors were last balanced. Many cars have been modified, so ask which parts are original and which were changed.
Test the drivetrain on a normal road
Shifts should be clean both cold and warm, with no grinding or jumping out of gear. Note clutch engagement height and any noise from the rear. Uneven tire wear can reflect alignment or worn suspension, so ask the inspector to explain the cause instead of guessing.
Price restoration evidence carefully
A restoration receipt should name the panels replaced and show photographs during the work, not just the finished paint. Ask who did the welding and whether the shell was measured afterwards. Unknown patch repairs on an S30 can turn a driver into a project.
Book the 240Z inspection with a shop that has seen the model before, and ask for a written report with photographs from underneath. Agree in advance who pays for the visit and what happens to your deposit if the findings are serious.
Use the history report for the right questions
Read title brands, dated odometer entries and changes of registration state before looking at service entries. Compare those events with the seller file and ask about gaps; a 240Z that sat for decades can show long silences that are normal, while a sudden mileage drop is not. The federal NMVTIS program explains its title, salvage and junk data role; it does not replace a workshop inspection. Our rust-and-history explainer helps you separate a recorded conflict from proof of a particular fault.
Keep ownership paperwork separate from condition
Match the seller name to the title and request a written lien release where needed. Our lien-release checks explains the paperwork sequence. Federal odometer disclosure rules are summarized at Cornell LII, though older vehicles can be exempt from some disclosure requirements, so the absence of a mileage statement is not proof of anything by itself. Our odometer discrepancy guide covers what a missing service entry can and cannot tell you.
Set the offer after the inspection
Ask for separate estimates for safety work, overdue servicing and cosmetic improvements. A hypothetical $1,500 repair reserve is only a planning example; it can be inadequate on an older collector vehicle. A seller PDF can be edited, so obtain your own report using the identifier stamped on the vehicle. Look, a car that has never been seen from underneath is not ready for a deposit.
We are a licensed CARFAX and AutoCheck reseller, not affiliated with CARFAX, AutoCheck or Experian. Recent advertised pricing has been about $5.50 guest, $4.50 member or $6.75 for a bundle; confirm the price and included reports at checkout. Buy the report before committing, then keep it with the inspection findings and signed sale documents.
Bring a magnet wrapped in cloth to check lower panels for filler, and ask permission before lifting trim or carpets.
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