Used Toyota Century Buying Guide: Import, V12 and Title Checks

A used Toyota Century is a good buy in the U.S. only when the import paperwork is complete, the title is clean in your state, and the V12 or V8 drivetrain has records, because Toyota built the car for the Japanese market and never sold it new here. Wikipedia's Toyota Century entry notes production began in 1967 with redesigns in 1997 and 2018, and that only about 100 left-hand-drive cars were built for export. When we queried the NHTSA recall API on Nov. 5, 2026 for Century model years, it returned no U.S. campaigns, which is what you expect for a car Toyota never certified here.

Which Century you are looking at

The first generation ran for three decades with small changes. The second generation, launched in 1997, used a 5.0-liter 1GZ-FE V12 that Wikipedia describes as bespoke to the Century and Toyota's first V12. The third generation, from 2018, switched to a V8 hybrid. Under the 25-year rule, U.S. imports today are first-generation cars and early second-generation V12 cars. A 2018-on car cannot be imported for road use yet, so walk away from anyone claiming otherwise.

Import paperwork comes first

A car never sold new in the U.S. can only be imported under the federal exemption for vehicles at least 25 years old, as described on the NHTSA importing a vehicle page. Ask for the customs entry (CBP Form 7501), the stamped HS-7 declaration and the EPA import form, plus the Japanese export certificate. Those papers are what a state DMV uses to issue a first U.S. title. Without them you may be buying a registration problem. Our grey-market import title guide covers how states treat these cars, and this explainer covers why U.S. history reports start thin on imports.

Mechanical checks that matter

The V12 is smooth and under-stressed, but parts are Japan-sourced and slow. Ask for proof of timing-belt service, look for oil seepage at the valve covers, and check that both banks idle evenly with a scan tool if the car supports it. Air suspension and the many power accessories (rear seat controls, curtains, door closers) should all work, because repairing them can cost more than the car seemed to save. Expect right-hand drive and a kilometer odometer. Read our kilometer-to-mile odometer guide before you trust a converted mileage figure.

When to walk away

• No customs entry, HS-7 or EPA form in the file.
• A title issued by a state other than the one the seller lives in, with no explanation.
• Smoke, misfires or a dead air suspension with no repair estimate.
• A claimed model year that is newer than the 25-year rule allows.

Questions to ask the seller

• Who imported the car, and when did it clear customs?
• Can I see the Japanese export certificate and its translation?
• When was the timing belt done, and by whom?
• Has the car been titled in any other U.S. state?

Reading the history on a decades-old car

Do not expect a long service log. Records from the 1970s and 1980s were often never reported, so the report matters most for title brands, odometer readings at title transfers and registration gaps by state. A car that moved from a coastal or rust-belt state to a dry one may have been retitled; look at the dates and ask why. An approved NMVTIS check adds salvage and junk records from insurers and recyclers. If the odometer readings go backward or the car shows as exempt, ask for the paper trail before you price it. Our odometer discrepancy guide explains what those entries mean.

Private-sale paperwork

Most cars like this sell privately. Make sure the name on the title matches the seller ID, the VIN on the title matches the plate and the stamping on the car, and any old lien is released in writing. Our lien release guide walks through that step. Pay by a traceable method, get a dated bill of sale, and do not accept an open title signed by someone who is not present.

How to price it

Century prices depend on generation, condition and how complete the import file is. Compare recent U.S. sales of the same generation and drive side, then subtract shipping-backlog parts costs and a specialist inspection. A cheap car with missing papers is not a deal.

What the report costs

As of early November 2026 a CARFAX bought direct usually costs around $44.99, and AutoCheck sits a little lower. We are a licensed CARFAX and AutoCheck reseller, not affiliated with CARFAX, AutoCheck or Experian. Our guest price has been about $5.50 a report, about $4.50 for members, and about $6.75 for a CARFAX and AutoCheck bundle. Confirm the price at checkout, since it can change.

On a car this old, read the report for title brands and odometer readings first; service entries are often thin.

Sources

• NHTSA recall lookup (API checked Nov. 5, 2026)
• NHTSA importing a vehicle
• Toyota Century, Wikipedia
• NMVTIS
• Pre-purchase inspection cost