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Buying Guides November 5, 2026 · 4 min read

Used Lincoln Navigator 1st Gen Buying Guide: Cruise Switch, Title

The first Navigator ran 1998-2002. Check the cruise switch campaigns, hitch bolts, air suspension and the title first.

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CheapCarfaxAutocheck Editorial Team
Vehicle History Research Team
Used Lincoln Navigator 1st Gen Buying Guide: Cruise Switch, Title

A used first-generation Lincoln Navigator, the luxury twin of the first Expedition sold for the 1998 to 2002 model years, is worth buying when the cruise deactivation switch work is done, the hitch and frame are solid and the title is clean, because badge chrome does not fix an under-hood fire risk. On Nov. 5, 2026, the NHTSA recall API for 2000 returned 05V388000 and 05V017000 for speed control deactivation switches that may overheat, smoke or burn, 00V073000 for trailer hitch bolts that can lose clamp load and 01V258000 for a wiper motor cover switch that can fail. Run the VIN on the NHTSA recall lookup.

Which Navigator this is

Wikipedia describes the first Navigator as Lincoln's full-size SUV on the Expedition platform with a 5.4-liter V8. Match the VIN, year and options to the title. Our general Navigator guide covers later years, and our Lincoln recall check walks through a VIN search.

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Cruise switch campaigns

Ask for invoices covering 05V388000 and 05V017000. Look for evidence of prior heat damage near the brake booster and ask whether cruise was disconnected as an interim fix. A seller who shrugs off the campaign is not doing you a favor.

Air suspension and the hitch

Many Navigators of this era use rear air springs. Park overnight if you can and see whether the rear sags; listen for a compressor that runs often. Check hitch bolts for 00V073000 and the wipers for 01V258000 on a wet-day test if you can arrange one.

A test drive that tells you something

Drive it from cold, not after the seller has warmed it up. Listen for ticks and knocks at start-up, watch the mirror for smoke, and check that every gauge works. Try every gear, a hard stop and a slow full-lock turn both ways, then look under the truck for fresh drips. Bring a flashlight and a magnet for filler checks on the lower panels and cab corners.

Insurance, registration and inspection

Call your insurer with the VIN before you pay. A collector or agreed-value policy may need mileage limits, secure storage or photos, while a standard policy may value the vehicle low after a loss. Ask your state DMV whether the vehicle needs a VIN inspection, a safety inspection or an emissions test at transfer, and what happens if a prior registration lapsed for years. Budget for new tires if the date codes are old, even when the tread looks fine.

When to walk away

  • No record of the cruise switch campaigns.
  • A rear end that drops overnight with no repair plan.
  • Loose hitch hardware.
  • A VIN that does not match the title.

Questions to ask the seller

  • Were 05V388000 and 05V017000 done? Was the work done, and is there a receipt?
  • Is the air suspension original or converted?
  • Has it lived in a salt state?
  • Has the title ever been branded?

Reading the history on an older SUV

Do not expect a complete service log. Many independent shops never reported their work, so the report matters most for title brands, odometer readings at title transfers and registration gaps by state. A car that moved from a coastal or rust-belt state to a dry one may have been retitled; look at the dates and ask why. An approved NMVTIS check adds salvage and junk records from insurers and recyclers. If the odometer readings go backward or the car shows as exempt, ask for the paper trail before you price it. Our odometer discrepancy guide explains what those entries mean.

Private-sale paperwork

Most cars like this sell privately. Make sure the name on the title matches the seller ID, the VIN on the title matches the plate and the stamping on the car, and any old lien is released in writing. Our lien release guide walks through that step. Pay by a traceable method, get a dated bill of sale, and do not accept an open title signed by someone who is not present.

How to price it

Documented Navigators sell above rough ones. Compare recent sales on Hagerty when comps exist, then subtract cruise switch work, air springs and hitch repair.

What the report costs

As of early November 2026 a CARFAX bought direct usually costs around $44.99, and AutoCheck sits a little lower. We are a licensed CARFAX and AutoCheck reseller, not affiliated with CARFAX, AutoCheck or Experian. Our guest price has been about $5.50 a report, about $4.50 for members, and about $6.75 for a CARFAX and AutoCheck bundle. Confirm the price at checkout, since it can change.

On a car this old, read the report for title brands and odometer readings first; service entries are often thin.

Sources

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