A used Mitsubishi Pajero is a fair buy when the import paperwork is complete, the body and frame are solid and the title matches the chassis number, because Pajero is the name Mitsubishi used in Japan and many export markets for the SUV sold in the U.S. as the Montero. The Wikipedia Pajero page covers the naming. On Nov. 5, 2026, a Pajero query on the NHTSA recall API returned no campaigns, while a 1995 Montero query returned 00V311001 (crankshaft pulley bolt can loosen on 3.0-liter engines) and 98V205000 (accessory cargo mats can block third-seat latching). A U.S. Montero is titled as Montero, so run the VIN on the NHTSA recall lookup and ask a dealer about a Japan-market chassis.
Import paperwork comes first
A car never sold new in the U.S. can only be imported under the federal exemption for vehicles at least 25 years old, as described on the NHTSA importing a vehicle page. Ask for the customs entry (CBP Form 7501), the stamped HS-7 declaration and the EPA import form, plus the Japanese or European export certificate. Those papers are what a state DMV uses to issue a first U.S. title. Without them you may be buying a registration problem. Our grey-market import title guide covers how states treat these cars, and this explainer covers why U.S. history reports start thin on imports.
Pajero versus Montero identity
Confirm whether the truck is a U.S. Montero or an imported Pajero. Match the chassis number, engine and drive side to the papers. Our Montero guide covers the U.S. model, and our Isuzu Trooper guide covers a rival.
Engine and pulley bolt
On a 3.0-liter V6, ask whether the pulley-bolt campaign or an equivalent fix was done. On a diesel, start it cold and watch for smoke. Our open recall guide covers campaigns.
Rust and body
Check the sills, the rear wheel arches, the spare-tire mount on the tailgate and the floor under the mats.
Third seat and records
If it has a third row, make sure the folding seats latch with any mats in place. Our classic car history guide covers thin logs.
A test drive that tells you something
Drive it from cold, not after the seller has warmed it up. Listen for ticks and knocks at start-up, watch the mirror for smoke, and check that every gauge works. Try every gear, a hard stop and a slow full-lock turn both ways, then look under the truck for fresh drips. Bring a flashlight and a magnet for filler checks on the lower panels and cab corners.
Insurance, registration and inspection
Call your insurer with the VIN before you pay. A collector or agreed-value policy may need mileage limits, secure storage or photos, while a standard policy may value the vehicle low after a loss. Ask your state DMV whether the vehicle needs a VIN inspection, a safety inspection or an emissions test at transfer, and what happens if a prior registration lapsed for years. Budget for new tires if the date codes are old, even when the tread looks fine.
When to walk away
- Missing customs or export papers.
- Rotten sills or floors.
- Third-row seats that will not latch.
- A chassis number that does not match the title.
Questions to ask the seller
- Can I see the customs entry and the export certificate?
- Was the pulley-bolt fix done?
- What rust repair was done?
- Has the title ever been branded?
Reading the history on a decades-old car
Do not expect a long service log. Records from the 1970s and 1980s were often never reported, so the report matters most for title brands, odometer readings at title transfers and registration gaps by state. A car that moved from a coastal or rust-belt state to a dry one may have been retitled; look at the dates and ask why. An approved NMVTIS check adds salvage and junk records from insurers and recyclers. If the odometer readings go backward or the car shows as exempt, ask for the paper trail before you price it. Our odometer discrepancy guide explains what those entries mean.
Private-sale paperwork
Most cars like this sell privately. Make sure the name on the title matches the seller ID, the VIN on the title matches the plate and the stamping on the car, and any old lien is released in writing. Our lien release guide walks through that step. Pay by a traceable method, get a dated bill of sale, and do not accept an open title signed by someone who is not present.
How to price it
Clean, documented Pajeros sell above trucks with paperwork gaps. Compare recent sales on Hagerty when comps exist, then subtract import gaps, rust and engine work.
What the report costs
As of early November 2026 a CARFAX bought direct usually costs around $44.99, and AutoCheck sits a little lower. We are a licensed CARFAX and AutoCheck reseller, not affiliated with CARFAX, AutoCheck or Experian. Our guest price has been about $5.50 a report, about $4.50 for members, and about $6.75 for a CARFAX and AutoCheck bundle. Confirm the price at checkout, since it can change.
On a car this old, read the report for title brands and odometer readings first; service entries are often thin.
Sources
- NHTSA recall lookup (API checked Nov. 5, 2026; Pajero 1995: none; 1995 Montero: 00V311001, 98V205000)
- Mitsubishi Pajero, Wikipedia
- NMVTIS
- Hagerty (valuation tools)
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