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Buying Guides November 5, 2026 · 4 min read

Used Datsun 620 Buying Guide: Rust, Parts and Title

The 620 is the 1970s Datsun pickup Nissan sold before the 720. Check rust, the fuel pump and the title first.

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CheapCarfaxAutocheck Editorial Team
Vehicle History Research Team
Used Datsun 620 Buying Guide: Rust, Parts and Title

A used Datsun 620 is worth buying when the cab, bed and frame are solid, the fuel system is sound and the title VIN matches the truck, because the 620 is a 1970s Nissan pickup that came before the 720 and most surviving trucks are near 50 years old. The Wikipedia Datsun 620 page covers its history. On Nov. 5, 2026, the NHTSA recall API returned 07E064000, a recall of certain Federal-Mogul aftermarket fuel pumps sold under brands such as Carter and NAPA, whose diaphragm could fail. That one is about a replacement part, not the factory truck. Run the VIN on the NHTSA recall lookup before you pay.

620 identity

Match the year, the engine, the bed length and the VIN to the title. Many 620s carry swapped engines from later Datsuns. Our Datsun 720 guide covers the truck that followed, and our Datsun 510 guide covers a car from the same era.

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Fuel pump and lines

If the truck has an aftermarket mechanical pump, check the brand and look for wet spots. Smell for fuel after a drive and replace old rubber lines. Our open recall guide covers how campaigns read.

Cab and bed rust

Check the cab corners, the floor, the bottoms of the doors, the bed floor and the frame near the rear springs. Bondo is common; bring a magnet.

Parts and electrics

Trim and body parts can be scarce. Test the lights, gauges and wipers, and check whether the wiring has been spliced.

A test drive that tells you something

Drive it from cold, not after the seller has warmed it up. Listen for ticks and knocks at start-up, watch the mirror for smoke, and check that every gauge works. Try every gear, a hard stop and a slow full-lock turn both ways, then look under the truck for fresh drips. Bring a flashlight and a magnet for filler checks on the lower panels and cab corners.

Insurance, registration and inspection

Call your insurer with the VIN before you pay. A collector or agreed-value policy may need mileage limits, secure storage or photos, while a standard policy may value the vehicle low after a loss. Ask your state DMV whether the vehicle needs a VIN inspection, a safety inspection or an emissions test at transfer, and what happens if a prior registration lapsed for years. Budget for new tires if the date codes are old, even when the tread looks fine.

When to walk away

  • Frame rot or a cracked rear spring hanger.
  • Fuel smell with an unknown pump.
  • A VIN that does not match the title.
  • Filler covering rust-through on the cab.

Questions to ask the seller

  • What engine is in it now?
  • What fuel-system work has been done?
  • How much rust repair has it had?
  • Has the title ever been branded?

Reading the history on a decades-old car

Do not expect a long service log. Records from the 1970s and 1980s were often never reported, so the report matters most for title brands, odometer readings at title transfers and registration gaps by state. A car that moved from a coastal or rust-belt state to a dry one may have been retitled; look at the dates and ask why. An approved NMVTIS check adds salvage and junk records from insurers and recyclers. If the odometer readings go backward or the car shows as exempt, ask for the paper trail before you price it. Our odometer discrepancy guide explains what those entries mean.

Private-sale paperwork

Most cars like this sell privately. Make sure the name on the title matches the seller ID, the VIN on the title matches the plate and the stamping on the car, and any old lien is released in writing. Our lien release guide walks through that step. Pay by a traceable method, get a dated bill of sale, and do not accept an open title signed by someone who is not present.

How to price it

Clean, original 620s are worth more than modified ones. Compare recent sales on Hagerty when comps exist, then subtract rust, swaps and missing trim.

What the report costs

As of early November 2026 a CARFAX bought direct usually costs around $44.99, and AutoCheck sits a little lower. We are a licensed CARFAX and AutoCheck reseller, not affiliated with CARFAX, AutoCheck or Experian. Our guest price has been about $5.50 a report, about $4.50 for members, and about $6.75 for a CARFAX and AutoCheck bundle. Confirm the price at checkout, since it can change.

On a car this old, read the report for title brands and odometer readings first; service entries are often thin.

Sources

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